The Crepe

So. I didn't quite adhere to Gertie's Crepe Sewalong schedule. I started with Gertie in December....and finished nearly eight months later. I just didn't want to rush things...or more accurately, I am a procrastinator who allowed the near-finished dress to hang on my dressform for months because I hate hemming.

The pattern is the Crepe by Colette Patterns. My fashion fabric is a medium-weight cotton purchased from Denver Fabrics online (still available here). The navy and cream cross-hatch pattern is set on the diagonal and is incredibly flattering and wearable. I underlined the entire dress with a navy cotton batiste to add body and opaqueness to the dress.

Along the way, I made a few adjustments to the construction to make the dress my own and suit my personal style. The simplest alteration was adding length to the ties (about 6 inches) so that I could tie them in front rather than back. I knew that a back bow wasn't my style necessarily and would not allow me to add a cardigan on top. I also removed the curve from the sweetheart neckline. Finally, I cut about 3 1/2 inches from the skirt length for a knee-length hem.

I hesitated adding the pockets concerned about adding bulk in the hip area, but they really are *essential* to making this a great dress. I love them...not that you can tell from my so-so expression in the picture!

Fitting the bodice of my Crepe was a long process. My first issue was that I just started with the wrong size. I cut my first bodice muslin as a 10 and quickly realized my mistake. Next I cut an 8 and still made many adjustments. Some of my adjustments were apparently lost during transfer to my pattern, because once the fashion fabric was cut and the bodice sewn, there were still significant fit issues to overcome. At that point, in my head, I heard Tim Gunn saying "make it work"... and that I did. I just started pinching and tucking the excess fabric and realized I could carry those tucks directly into the line of the sleeves (on both the bodice front and back) creating a more flattering sleeve shape in the process. An unorthodox method, but it somehow worked for me! With the busy fabric it is difficult to see what I did, so I will take some detailed pictures another day and show the adjustments.

The new sleeve shape and neckline is much more flattering for me.

I love the finished look that the underlining adds. This was my first time following the steps of a sewalong and I learned some great techniques, such as underlining and using silk organza to stabilize the neckline. Because I enjoyed Gertie's instruction, I recently purchased her online Perfect Fit Bombshell Dress class on Craftsy.

A Simple Summer Top :: McCalls 5388

McCalls 5388 is my one entry in Rae's Spring Top Sewalong for 2011. I had grand plans to put some of my fabric and patterns to use, but found no time for execution! The fabric is a cotton lawn I picked up in Joann's red tag area for $1/yard a couple of years ago. It is quite light and soft and will make for a cool, breezy top in the summer heat.

The pattern is straightforward. I sewed View C but skipped the ruffles, so the top is really quite simple. For the back, I cut two pieces to allow for a swayback adjustment. (Sorry, no rearview pics; my 5 year old photographer only snapped a few at my request. Note, having a shorty take your photos is not flattering for the ol' double chin....) If you are planning to sew one of these up, know that the neckline is as low as the pattern envelope photo shows. I cut a size 10 (and wear an 8 in RTW clothing), but once finished I realized I should have cut a smaller size since the front was falling foward and exposing quite a bit when bent over. Since I had already bound the armhole and shoulder seams in bias tape, I did not want to pick the seams apart. Instead, I took vertical tuck in the center of the front yoke. (Later, I will add a close-up photo to show this.) With the gathered bodice, the tuck blends right in. The final fit is much better with the small adjustment.

Nightshirt Refashion

After seeing this nightshirt worn on the bloganista flickr group, I purchased one at Target on clearance for less than $4 for my first refashion. This top was intended to be my second entry for Rae's Top Week. The deadline was Friday 4/30. The master procrasinator in me just assumed that the deadline was Friday at 11:59:59, so after getting my daughter to bed that night, I scurried around to finish the top and upload the pictures to flickr. I was even going to be clever and name the top "the buzzer beater" or something...but checked Rae's blog and saw that the deadline was actually 8 PM. Oh well, that news allowed me to slow down and finish the top on Saturday with a little more care.

Fortunately, the nightshirt fit me perfectly across the shoulders, so no adjustments there. I cut off eight or so inches off the bottom and got started. First I opened up the collar seams and removed the collar, leaving just the band which I restitched. I took in the side and sleeve seams quite a bit.

On the placket, I removed all buttons and sewed the bottom two-thirds shut. Then from the fabric piece cut from the bottom, I created ruffles cut on the bias and sewed them right onto the placket. I like the current ruffle-trend but in small doses, so this worked well for me.

I used a hem facing and finished with a double-row of topstitching. With facings, I have been understitching (using Karyn's tutorial) which makes a big difference in the finished product. After cutting the sleeves to three-quarter length, I considered adding a bias cut binding, but decided to go with a simple casing for elastic.

This is an easy top to throw on for a comfy weekend day.

Another go at Simplicity 2892

Last year for made by rae's Spring Top Week, I made a Simplicity 2892. Why not kick off this year's Top Week with the same pattern? This black and white cotton lawn was scored on clearance last year from fabric.com for only $3.49 per yard. (I have the same print in green and white that is destined to become a tunic)

This view of the pattern has lots of fussy details including a ruffle, a gathered yoke and hand-joined yoke facing. You can read my post about the first 2892 for some details. The only variation I made to this version was four rows of shirring at the hem. I have wanted to try shirring and it was fairly easy. The details are a little hard to see on this busy fabric.

I loved the outcome of last year's 2892 but don't love the fabric. I wore it just once. This black and white version is the most wearable of any garment I have made. It sort of has a White House Black Market vibe.

A couple of other tops are in process (along with two skirts and a dress)....let's see if I make the deadline for Top Week!

Skirt Muslin

Dressmaking, aka garment sewing, has my interest these days. I added some new books to my sewing library to focus on learning techniques and drafting patterns. A few new blogs have been added to my google reader and I registered for the classes that came with my new sewing machine.

Design it Yourself Clothes by Cal Patch is teaching me how to draft patterns. Cal walks step-by-step through pattern drafting with instructions to make skirt, pants, woven top, t-shirt and dress patterns. I started with the skirt and have been working on my pattern and muslin for the past few weeks. I've also been hanging out at KitschyKoo's sewalong over at her blog and on flickr.

The pattern drafting process is interesting. I love the idea of drafting custom patterns based on your personal measurements. As someone whose chest and waist measurements correspond to a "small" pattern size and hip measurement to "large", making custom fit clothing, especially skirts and pants, is an attractive concept. The drafting process takes patience and willingness to try and try again. At this point, I have adjusted my pattern eight or ten times.

After completing a first draft of my pattern, I realized that I forgot to include ease. Oops...I'm not going for skintight! So I erased my lines and redrew adding in an inch of ease to each measurement as the book suggests. After the pattern draft was revised, I cut out my fabric for the first trial run, aka my muslin. My muslin is not made of muslin at all, but of a lightweight embroidered black corduroy from my stash.

I then sewed up the side seams using a long basting stitch, leaving one side seam open about 8 inches at the top. Then I did a quick try-on and realized that my hand-drawn hip curve was unlike any natural hip shape in this world....with pointy bits sticking out from my hip area like some stylized couture piece...but not in a good way. (Note to self: purchase a hip curve soon.) I also found that the "sweep" (circumference of the bottom edge of the skirt) was too large, making this A-line skirt a seriously exaggerated A. So I went back to the pattern, redrew the hip curve and reduced the sweep. I ended up smoothing out the hip curve quite a bit, almost an inch inside the original hip point line I drew. My ending sweep measurement is only about six inches larger than the hip measurement. This made for a less exagerated A, but still flattering for my body shape.

Now is where I begin to sound like shampoo bottle instructions: wash, rinse, repeat...or in this case, redraw pattern, baste side seams, try on, rip out side seams, repeat. I went through this process five or six times, which is the exact reason to sew a muslin first (with basting stitches simple to rip out). The muslin allows you to achieve just the right fit and perfect the pattern through trial and error.

Once I had what I thought was a good fit, I wanted to take the skirt on a trial run. My goal was to ensure that the fit was nice and comfortable while sitting, walking, driving, etc. before I went to the trouble of finishing the waistband and attempting my first invisible zipper. So, I restitched the side seams (both all the way up) using a standard stitch length and handsewed the hem. In this condition, still with an unfinished waist, I slipped the skirt on over my head (yes, really!) and wore it work. My conclusion was that the fit was right, although the fabric stretched out a bit by the end of the day. I received a few compliments from co-workers, and thought to myself "if they only knew how unfinished this garment is."

The pictures in the post were taken after work (in diminishing natural light), so the skirt is a little stretched out but still well-fitting. Those black tights look so shiny with the flash and are doing nothing for me in these pictures :) I may go shorter on the length. This fabric could easily look dowdy at longer lengths. So now, I'll properly finish this skirt with lining, zipper and waistband...then try out the pattern in another fabric.

A Skirt for my Sweetie

It's a skirt weekend around here. So far, I had not made much clothing for my daughter as she already has an abundance of cute summer dresses. It is so easy to find cute clothes for a little girl, but not so much for a thirtysomething mom. So, I have focused mainly on sewing clothing for myself. But I received this fabric from Park Slope by Erin McMorris in one of the scrap packs I ordered and knew it was destined to be a sweet little girl skirt.

Fortunately the scrap pack pieces are full width 44" cuts, a great width for a gathered skirt. I just squared up the fabric and sewed the selvedge edges together as a back seam. Then I made a casing for 1/2" elastic and sewed a 1/4" rolled hem. Done. Easy.

I like that underneath it all, this is still an intact 44" wide piece of fabric, in case this fabric wants to become something else in the future. Of course, the skirt should last a few seasons with the flexibility of the elastic waist band and the generous length (this piece was a 13" cut.) I also left a few extra inches of elastic at the end of the waistband in case we need to let it out later.

The halter that was a dress that was a tank

This top started out as a dress in my mind. Then I realized that an empire waistline starting that high would not be flattering for my body shape. So I decided to make a simple tank rather than a dress. Then I sewed one of the straps on at a weird angle that worked better as a halter strap. So I settled on a halter. I like this kind of creating...figuring it out as you go and not being afraid to move away from your original plan.

I drafted the pattern using an Ann Taylor Loft top that I have with a simple design to duplicate. The fabric is a cotton voile that I picked up locally for $2.99 a yard! I love the colors. Because of the lightweight and almost sheer quality of the fabric, I added a muslin lining to the bottom half of the shirt. The top portion of the top is interfaced along with the straps to add some body.

I still need to make some fit adjustments. The top portion is a little big and the elastic just loose enough to not feel confident that it won't slip too low in the back.

As a bonus, once I finished the top, I realized I have two cardigans that will make this wearable for work and that match perfectly, one the medium green and one the light blue in the print. And I love how it works with this pretty necklace I ordered from Snapdragon on etsy. I'm not a paid sponsor :)...just a happy customer. I love green and this adds a great boost of color to so many outfits.

The color is so blah on these pictures. Trying to capture the last bit of natural light on a dreary day gave me dreary pictures!

Maggie's new duds

Meet Maggie. She was my daughter's first babydoll, a gift from my mom soon after my daughter's birth. After nearly four years with us, Maggie's original clothes are looking a little worn. I planned to make her a new outfit last Christmas, but didn't get to it. So, this week, I whipped up a summer dress and bloomers from some scraps in my stash. It was a quick and easy project....just a simple halter top connected to a gathered skirt. It is sort of a pain to sew such teeny-tiny seams. I got lazy toward the end and just zig-zagged along the hem of the dress and bloomers. I'll see how that holds up after washing and add a proper hem if necessary.

My daughter wanted to make Maggie a leotard. This was totally unprompted by me, so it was fun to see her interest. I gave her a few scraps and she started cutting and glueing! You can see got the shape pretty accurate, complete with shoulder straps and a skirt. The "finished' leotard wasn't exactly functional but it was fun to watch my daughter's creative process!

Round Yoke Top from that*darn*kat

 If you read my previous post, you know that I started a top for my daughter months ago and hadn't finished it for fear of buttonholes. Well, last night, I decided it was time to buckle-down and figure them out. I did it! They really weren't that hard...I just didn't feel like it at the time months ago, I guess. I will need some more practice to get the density of stitches just right.

The pattern from that*darn*kat is easy to follow and can be made into a top or dress. The dot fabric is one of the first fabrics I purchased when I started sewing and is super lightweight for summer. I like it paired with the gingham. I will make more from this pattern. Her summer wardrobe is overflowing already, so I may try one in a heavier weight to layer with a t-shirt and leggings for fall. I found a cute plum corduroy that will make a cute jumper.

Spring Ruffle Top

This top is made from the Spring Ruffle Top tutorial from made by rae. The fabric is Midnight Kisses by Heidi Grace Designs at JoAnn Fabric. I made no adjustments to the pattern. I chose to shape the sides (as rae includes as an optional step) by bringing in the side seams by about an inch on both sides. The shaping made the shirt more flattering and less maternity-like. I hemmed the shirt as is, leaving it almost tunic length. I added the optional divots to the armhole which helps with the overall fit and comfort.

The pattern was easy to follow. I did have to adjust the strap placement several times before sewing. I advise spending some time making sure the strap placement is just right (maybe even baste stitch) prior to sewing the straps to the chest band. I marked the placement in the beginning as the pattern instructs, but found that after I sewed the ruffle to the straps that I needed to adjust the placement all over again.

The shirt is cuter in person than in the photo! Again, it is nothing I would ever try on or purchase off-the-rack. I bought the necklace last year and had nothing with which to wear it. Don't you like how things come together sometimes?

Next time, I might adjust the size of the back panel piece so it doesn't require pleating. The pleating adds weird puffiness at the back...which I don't necessarily need back there! This shirt would be great for maternity wear. Another sewer on the flickr group made the pattern as a little girl's dress. I may just have to try that!

Summer Blouse

Here is my finished Summer Blouse from Weekend Sewing by Heather Ross. I have a few works in process from the book, so it feels good to finally finish one! After reading everyone's blog posts and viewing finished blouses on the flickr group, I knew that I would need to make some adjustments to the pattern and didn't want to use the "good" fabric on the first try. I used what I had on-hand with enough yardage, which happened to be a heavyweight cotton curtain panel from the IKEA as-is section. (I guess this is where it might be helpful to have a thrifted sheet or two or some muslin onhand.) The facings were made from a paisley home-dec remnant. Unconventional fabric choices, right? Somehow, though, they worked out!



I made a few alterations to the pattern. The neckline was lowered about 1.5" and hits just at the collarbone. I brought in the sides quite a bit and added an inch or two to the length, but unfortunately, I cannot remember how much. The book calls for a button and loop closure, but with my lowered collar that feature would not make sense.



I liked applying the facing along the neckline so much, that I went crazy and used facings to finish the cuffs and hemline. It is a nice method for hemming, especially with a heavier fabric like this. I was not looking forward to turning up the hem a couple of times and then trying to stitch through all the layers! Disclaimer: the flipped-up hem in the picture is soley for demonstration purposes! I don't plan to walk around with it flipped. I think I could pull off the flipped cuffs, though!

Today I ordered some great cotton lawn to make another version of this blouse, probably with 3/4 length sleeves and a v-neckline. It will be interesting to see a more relaxed shape using the lawn, since this finished version is so structured with the heavyweight cotton.

A summer top - Simplicity 2892

My first garment is finished! This is made from Simplicity 2892, the first commercial pattern I have used since junior high school. The fabric is off the quiliting wall at JoAnn's. I like the outcome and will definitely wear the top this summer.

Just a couple adjustments were made to the pattern. I shortened the body of the top by about an inch. (I'm 5' 3"). Determining the size was a little tough, as commercial pattern sizes are nothing like off-the-rack sizes. After measuring the pattern envelope told me I should wear a 12 or 14. After cutting the 12, I reconsidered and sized down to a 10. For comparison, I normally wear a small or medium (6 or 8) off the rack. After sewing the side seams, I decided the shirt was too wide and narrowed it a bit. To do this, I found a shirt in my closet that fits well, laid it on top and traced the shape. Initially, I planned to hem the shirt (view D), but decided to add elastic instead (view F). It seems to work better with the style and print and feels more finished this way.

The neck is quite detailed with a gathered yoke and ruffle (front and back). It took some time to gather the entire yoke and then the ruffle. Also, the yoke must be handstiched to the inside of the top. I suppose you could just topstitch the yoke to close the seam, but that would change the look with the topstitching visible on the outside. Although time consuming, I have found that I like this type of detail work that requires some handstitching and fussing.

It's funny - I would never try on this style or print at a clothing store, but I like it! I see myself making more from this pattern. This will be my first entry for made by rae's Spring Top Week.

Patterns, Prints, Plans

I have several works in progress (and works to start soon), all clothing for the spring and summer. I have plenty of solid clothes in my wardrobe, so these prints will add some fun.

Over the weekend, I started a top from Simplicity 2892. I am making the sleeveless version that is the large picture on the pattern envelope. It has a fun ruffle element that was a nice technique to try. The teal jacquard cotton is not a print a would usually choose, but the colors felt so fresh for spring. I would love to duplicate this style in my daughter's size. This is the first time I have used a commercial pattern since junior high, so it's been a nice refresher! The pattern had at least 9 or 10 pieces to cut out, so that took some time. I also agonized over the size...these pattern sizes run so differently than ready to wear clothing. I cut out one size, then held it up to my body and realized how huge it was and cut down to a smaller size.

The rust color print will become a Summer Blouse from Weekend Sewing by Heather Ross. I will likely make some adjustments to the book pattern. Fortunately, many others have made this blouse so I have been able to view pictures and comments on their various blogs. I am nearly finished making a Yard Sale Wrap Skirt (also from Weekend Sewing) from the white and red leaf print cotton. I have to make some major adjustments to the skirt for it to be wearable, at least for me. My version, cut to the pattern, is nearly a full circle skirt, way too full for my body shape. I think I'll just cut off the upper 6 inches or so of the skirt top, down to the point where the panels are much wider, to make it less full and knee length.

This weekend, I picked up Sew What Skirts and my first project will be either an a-line or beach wrap skirt from the black and white print. I like that this book gives directions to make your own patterns and try various techniques, so you can branch out from there.